Posts Tagged ‘Camille Malmquist’

Recipe of the Month: Pain d’Epices

French pain d’épices often gets mistranslated into English as gingerbread, but beyond both being heavily spiced, sweet quick breads, the two cakes bear little resemblance to one another. While the flavor of American gingerbread is […]

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Pommes duchesse

Pommes Duchesse

Pommes duchesse is not something you’ll find on the menu at many Paris restaurants anymore. That is a shame, because while this dish of puréed potato mixed with egg, then piped and baked to a golden […]

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Caviar d'aubergines is the perfect dish for a picnic in Paris

Caviar d’Aubergines

Undoubtedly, summer is the reigning season for a picnic in Paris. Most of the time, Parisians will stop by their neighborhood traiteur to pick up deli favorites, such as salads, pâtés and dips. One of the most popular of these is caviar d’aubergines, a thick purée of roasted eggplant, so named because it just might be as delicious as the storied fish eggs. Oh, and its color may resemble the lightest and finest caviars, if you squint just right.

Summer is also high season for eggplant. Roasting it yields a surprisingly rich flavor, with just a touch of smoke from the slightly charred skin. Cooking it on the grill increases the smokiness and is a great option on days too hot for the oven. Or if you happen to like […]

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Roast Pork and Carrots with Mustard Sauce

Here is a warming dish for fall, uncomplicated enough for a simple family dinner yet flavorful enough to serve to discerning guests. Reminiscent of classic French bistro cuisine, the succulent roast pork and the sweet caramelized carrots are beautifully offset by a tangy, kicky mustard sauce. The fact that the whole meal only dirties one pot is just icing.

I buy my pork roasts at a local butcher, where they come neatly tied up with twine, all ready to go in the oven. You want a nice, round loin roast (not tenderloin, which dries out too quickly for this preparation), preferably with a little bit of fat on the sides to keep everything lush. If yours doesn’t come already trussed, you can do it yourself by tying two or three lengths of butcher’s twine around the roast at regular intervals. Be sure to remove the twine before serving.

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Vol-au-Vents with Provençal Zucchini

Vol-au-vent translates literally to “flight in the wind” and refers to the airy lightness of the baked puff pastry shell. It is said to have been created by Antonin Carême in his Parisian patisserie in the early 19th century. Since then, the dish has become something of a stodgy classic, often filled with heavy, cream-based sauces and rich garnishes, such as scallops, shrimp, or chicken and mushrooms.

This version is decidedly lighter, harnessing the bright flavors of Provence, and will make an elegant first course for a late-summer dinner. And you don’t need to be anywhere near a Paris pastry shop to enjoy this perfect example of classic French cuisine.

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Wild Mushroom Soup

One of my favorite sights in the fall is the appearance of the wild-mushroom sellers in the Paris markets. Freshly foraged from the forest floor, the mushrooms come in all shapes, sizes and colors, their sylvan origins confirmed by the pine needles still clinging to them.

A velvety-smooth cream soup is the perfect vehicle to show off the deep flavors of these seasonal treats. You can use any combination of wild mushrooms you like or showcase a single variety if you prefer. Wild mushrooms can get expensive, so if budget is a concern, feel free to substitute up to half of the mushrooms in this recipe with cultivated ones, such as cremini, portobello or even button—just bear in mind that since these contain more water, they will take a little longer to cook.

While this soup tastes creamy and decadent, the texture comes not from cream but from the velouté, a classic French mother sauce made by thickening stock (and in this case […]

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Apricot Swirl Ice Cream

There’s no shortage of great ice cream shops in Paris. Many of them, however, close for summer vacation in August. What’s an ice cream lover to do during the dog days? Make your own, of course!

This recipe pairs a sweet-tart apricot swirl with a rich bitter-almond custard, made tangy with the addition of crème fraîche. Bitter almonds are a close relative of apricots, so their flavors work marvelously well together. They can be found in well-stocked Asian markets, but if you have trouble sourcing them, the apricot pits themselves make a fine substitute.

Cooking the custard requires a bit of vigilance. Be sure to use a gentle, even heat, and remove the custard from the stove as soon as it’s […]

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Chicken with Fennel, Rice and Spring Mushrooms

Late spring is one of the best times of year to shop for fresh produce in the Paris markets. The abundance of fresh herbs and delicate mushrooms makes a lovely flavor palette perfect for warmer weather.

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Warm Herbed Asparagus Salad with Poached Eggs

It may come as something of a surprise, but here in Paris—land of the coffee-and-croissant breakfast—weekend brunch has become downright trendy of late.

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An oyster stall

Broiled Oysters with Sabayon Glaze

It wouldn’t be the holidays in Paris without oysters. When the temperatures start to drop, oyster stands start popping up all over the city, in front of brasseries, wine bars and grocery stores. It’s easy to pick up a dozen fresh French oysters, crack them open and simply enjoy their briny nuances with a glass of white wine, but the holidays call for something a little more special, I think. Something champagne worthy.

Enter the sabayon. This classic French sauce, similar to Italian zabaglione, is most often seen as a sweet concoction, but its frothy opulence works just as well in savory applications. Here, it’s used to glaze the oysters, protecting them from overcooking under the heat of the broiler, and adding an ethereal counterpoint to the meaty morsel underneath. Minced shallots and cracked black pepper add depth […]

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Tarte Chocolat-Noisette

Nearly every French bakery offers a version of the tarte au chocolat, or ganache tart. It ranges from the sublime (thin, crisp crust with creamy, deeply chocolaty filling) to the shameful (days-old, soggy crust and dried, cracked ganache). But it’s such an […]

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Braised Red Cabbage with Apples and Sausage

Choucroute garnie is a classic of Alsatian cuisine and is particularly suited to long winter nights. The long-simmered dish featuring endless pork products […]

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Pommes à la Dauphinoise

France has at least as many potato dishes as there are days of the year. Pommes à la dauphinoise, or gratin dauphinois, is both one of the simplest and one of the tastiest. Traditionally it’s baked in a shallow gratin dish rubbed with garlic, but I like the […]

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