If you turn down the quiet street of rue des Beaux Arts in Saint-Germain, you could easily walk by the chic Paris hotel simply named l’Hôtel, as I did, but I quickly learned that this privacy is a central component of l’Hôtel’s charm and enduring success.
Ralph Lauren’s Paris restaurant, the aptly named Ralph’s, has been open since 2010. Given the rate at which new restaurants in Paris come and go, a two-year-old eatery (even one opened with a certain brand of fanfare that can only be generated by a global fashion icon) is hardly news anymore. But when an American friend who works in fashion came to Paris recently, we decided to pay a visit to Ralph’s and see what all the fuss—old and new—is about.
There is no shortage of Paris restaurants serving steak frites. You can find the dish on many menus, and everyone claims to have a favorite, from the all-you-can-eat steak frites at Le Relais de l’Entrecôte to the beef aged to perfection at Le Severo. I’ve eaten my share of this delicious red-meat-and-potato combo in Paris, but I recently learned of an old (but new to me) top-notch steak frites spot called Aux Tonneaux des Halles, and I had to check it out.
Good sandwiches start with good bread, and there aren’t many breads better than pain Poilâne. The legendary loaf stands well on its own, but it is sublime when toasted, which is exactly the treatment it gets at Cuisine de Bar, a smart eat-in annex of the famous bakery (which now has a shop in the upper Marais, by the way).
More than a café, but barely a restaurant, the “bar” in this cuisine is the long counter that divides the open kitchen from the banquette […]
Agapé Substance, among the most anticipated Paris restaurant openings of the summer, is a showcase for 30-year-old chef David Toutain, who, armed with a set of long tweezers, sends out exquisitely plated, highly conceptual food from his lablike kitchen.
Touring Paris sometimes means staying on the path most traveled. This can make looking for an authentic evening out among locals something of a challenge if you happen to be strolling in a place like the Marais or St.-Germain-des-Prés as the clock strikes 8:00 and you are hungry for something real. Just about every restaurant will be bursting with a cacophony of languages. How can you tell if the place is any good?
“Quelle cuisson?” (“How do you want your steak cooked?”) is the only question they ask at Le Relais de l’Entrecôte, which I would call a mill if I didn’t like it so much. Oh, who am I kidding. It’s totally a mill. And I love it.
Le Relais de l’Entrecôte belongs to a group that has three Paris addresses, plus outposts in Geneva and (sigh) Dubai, that serve nothing but steak and fries. I’m still not sure if it’s a Paris restaurant or a Paris-themed restaurant, but I’m also not sure I care.
On a recent Paris stay, I decided to try the Hôtel Sainte-Beuve. Since most of our readers love staying in the 6th Arrondissement or the Marais, hunting down another charmer on the left bank is always important. Nicholas Noonan is new to the Paris hotel business. As a recent investor in the Hôtel Sainte-Beuve, and owner of the Hôtel Verneuil, he is lucky to have partners and managers who have run these charming hotels smoothly and with kindness for years. The Sainte-Beuve doesn’t disappoint.
The other Paris restaurants on this street are all tourist traps, with waiters standing out front to try and lure you in. Ignore them and keep walking until you smell bacon and butter. That’s when you know you’ve arrived at the crêperie Little Breizh.
A young couple runs the place. There is Breton bric-a-brac everywhere […]
La Fontaine de Mars has the charm of a neighborhood Paris bistro and the polish of a destination restaurant, which is what it has become for legions of visitors (including, famously, the Obamas, back in 2009) who are looking for some kind of quintessential French dining experience.
It would seem that chef Jean-François Renard has a thing for out-of-the-way neighborhoods. He first gained a following at Carte Blanche, a contemporary Paris bistro in a quiet part of the 9th (which is getting trendier by the day), and now he has set up deep in the 11th, taking over the former L’Aiguière and rechristening it Le Tintilou.
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