While I sometimes think there are too many restaurants in Paris, not all of them worthy, I can’t say there are too many wine bars in Paris. As far as I’m concerned, there’s no such thing. You need one for every mood. Sometimes you’d like to spend the evening sampling different food and wine pairings. Sometimes you just want to meet for a drink and a snack before a late dinner. And sometimes you don’t want the night to end, and you need a place for casual after-dinner drinks.
Scoring a reservation at Frenchie is no easy feat. This modern bistro, run by chef Gregory Marchand, is small, widely lauded, with a deserving reputation for great food at a reasonable price. Thanks to abundant press coverage, every visiting American food lover […]
I love shopping in Paris, and some of my favorite places to shop are the local auction houses. Attending a local auction is a unique, culturally rich experience where collectors and art lovers can still find a bargain.
There is plenty to like about L’Hédoniste, a new bistro near the rue Montorgueil, starting with the warm welcome. Owner Arthur Pétillault (a former food writer) presides over the room with a smile and eagerness to please.
It’s an old space, with exposed beams and stone walls. The partly open […]
This neighborhood bistro in the 9th—on a wonderful stretch of food real estate that includes Vivant and L’Orient d’Or—has been a Foodie Fave once before. But recently it got a slight makeover, plus an infusion of American blood in the kitchen, and I’d heard good things.
Conversations about Frenchie tend to focus on the difficulty of scoring a reservation. It’s true that this is one of the hardest Paris restaurants to book, and successes are usually the result of intrepid dialing or […]
Lyon is an easy trip from Paris: the TGV will get you there in about two hours. But for a taste of Lyon without leaving town, there’s Aux Lyonnais. Open since 1890, the restaurant is now part of Alain Ducasse’s Esprit Bistrot group. The room is gorgeous, a warm belle epoque space, with ornate molding and mirrors, filled with the kind of bright, buttery light that seems to exist only in Paris. The pink-and-white-checked tablecloths, though, remind you that the inspiration here comes from the famous bouchons of Lyon.
If I’m in the mood for Vietnamese food in Paris, I head to Song Heng on the rue Volta and wait my turn for a place in the cramped dining room, where there are only two things on the menu: bo bun and pho. Getting in and out of a seat here can be a gymnastic feat and always necessitates a string of apologies. It’s not comfortable, but it’s comforting all the same. Noodles are like that.
There is much more to Vietnamese cooking than pho and bo bun, of course, and Paris is not a bad place to be if this is a cuisine you enjoy.
“Oh, it’s fancy,” I said to my friends as we entered Bistro Volnay. Suits populated the cushioned seats, elbows rested on white linens, the clinking of heavy silver was muffled by thick carpeting. A gorgeous art deco bar lined one wall, and a waitress was skillfully plating a beautiful dish of buttery sole.
Le Chardenoux is a stunning Paris bistro, with mirrors, woodwork and a gorgeous painted ceiling, all seemingly unchanged since it opened its doors in 1908. A century later it was bought by Cyril Lignac, a media-savvy, Alain Passard–trained talent turned TV chef, and became a second, more casual companion to his ultramodern Le Quinzième.
Drouant is a classic, but for some reason I had never gotten around to visiting. In a city with thousands of restaurants, I suppose this isn’t too hard to understand, but my own biases are also to blame. I love small, personal restaurants, and Drouant, with its sprawling set of dining rooms and almost equally as sprawling menu, never really called to me.
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