Posts Tagged ‘1st Arrondissement’

La Taverne Henry IV, a Local Paris Wine Bar

Opened in 1885, La Taverne Henry IV is one of the oldest wine bars still serving in Paris today. And while the food is fresh, the recipes have […]

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Shopping: Rue Etienne Marcel

When I first moved to the Montorgueil quartier, I only had eyes for rue Montorgueil….

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Paris secrets: ZenZoo tea parlor

Paris Secrets: An Afternoon in the Japanese Quarter

In the nest of winding streets between the Palais Royal and Opéra, a batch of Japanese restaurants and businesses unassumingly sprout out of the area’s Haussmannian buildings to form one of the best Paris secrets: a booming Japanese quarter. Not only is the quarter the city’s culinary hub of Japanese cuisine, it also boasts a variety of specialty grocery stores and tea parlors, as well a handful of French cultural attractions such as the quaint Passage Vivienne, the beautiful Palais Royal and the Richelieu branch of the Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF).

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Pulled-duck bites at Pirouette, a 1st Arrondissement Paris restaurant whose highly crafted yet affordable dishes are classing up Les Halles

Paris Restaurants: Pirouette

When I was a little girl, the only part of ballet lessons that I ever remember enjoying was the part where we got to break free from the dreadful rigidity of the bar exercises and spin across the floor doing pirouettes. Because who doesn’t love twirling around in a tutu?

Les Halles’ newest resto, Pirouette, promises to leave you with equally enjoyable memories. While most Paris restaurants in this particularly seedy corner of Les Halles […]

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Masters of French Chocolate: Jean-Paul Hévin

In the smart environs of the 1st Arrondissement, nestled alongside the most elegant of Parisian boutiques, is the chic rue Saint-Honoré flagship of Jean-Paul Hévin. It is a shrine to fine French chocolate, and there […]

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Carre de cochon ibérique, an exquisite pork dish at Pierre Jancou's 10th Arrondissement Paris bistro Vivant Table

Vivant Table

It was with some trepidation that I ventured into Vivant Table to try Pierre Jancou’s recently updated Paris bistro. Vivant opened in April of 2011 to mostly rave reviews, but Girls’ Guide founder Doni Belau had a less-than-perfect experience when she dined there, with beyond poor service and inedible items on the plate. So I was curious to see where things would fall for me.

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Teens in Paris

People are often looking for great things to do with teens in Paris, and last week I stumbled upon a fantastic address for just about any teen: Le Laboratoire, near Les Halles. Founded by the Harvard scientist David Edwards, with partners across the globe, Le Lab is a place where art and design meet science. It might sound strange—the idea of taking your teen to a science lab on vacation—but this one is like no other.

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Veal at Verjus, the new Paris restaurant from Braden and Laura, the foodie power couple of Hidden Kitchen fame.

Verjus Restaurant

I remember experiencing extreme joy and sadness last year after eating an exquisite meal at the home of US culinary power couple Braden and Laura, when they hosted their final installment of their supper club, Hidden Kitchen. The pair has since returned to hanging laundry in their dining room and entertaining just for family and intimate friends, but if you’re not related to them, you’re still in luck—Braden and Laura have opened their first Paris restaurant, Verjus.

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Le Meurice

Paris has 10 three-star Michelin restaurants, and I’ve eaten in exactly zero of them. It’s next to impossible to have a proper dinner at any of the top restaurants for less than 200 euros per person. If you really want to go all out and experience the tasting menu with wine pairings, that number can be closer to 400–500 euros each.

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Onion soup at Terroir Parisien, the affordable bistro in the 5th Arrondissement of Paris helmed by the three-star Michelin chef Yannick Alléno.

Terroir Parisien

Having had the good fortune—and the emphasis is definitely on “fortune”—to dine at the three-star Michelin restaurant Le Meurice, I was happy to learn that I wouldn’t have to save up for a few more years before I tasted Yannick Alléno’s wonderful cooking again. Chef Alléno recently opened a casual Paris bistro in the 5th, the much more affordable yet equally enjoyable Terroir Parisien.

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In China, “yam cha” is the morning gathering when families share dim sums over a cup of tea. In Paris, Yam’Tcha is an exquisite fusion restaurant opened by Adeline Grattard when she came back from Hong Kong in 2009.

Nestled on a quiet street near the bustling Les Halles, Grattard’s boutique restaurant […]

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Duck confit with grilled potato rounds and salad at Aux Tonneaux des Halles, a classic spot for steak frites in the 1st Arrondissement of Paris

Aux Tonneaux des Halles

There is no shortage of Paris restaurants serving steak frites. You can find the dish on many menus, and everyone claims to have a favorite, from the all-you-can-eat steak frites at Le Relais de l’Entrecôte to the beef aged to perfection at Le Severo. I’ve eaten my share of this delicious red-meat-and-potato combo in Paris, but I recently learned of an old (but new to me) top-notch steak frites spot called Aux Tonneaux des Halles, and I had to check it out.

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Udon with shrimp tempura at the Japanese noodle house Kunitoraya, in the 1st Arrondissement of Paris


This is surely one of the most popular addresses in the Japanese neighborhood around rue Ste.-Anne, and it’s one of my favorites, too. Kunitoraya is part of a mini-empire of Paris restaurants that includes the younger but higher-end Kunitoraya 2, as well as a Japanese-French bakery/café, Aki, where you can get a brioche with a beguiling swirl of matcha and (I’m not making this up) a sandwich made from a baguette stuffed with gyoza, the pan-fried dumplings served in noodle shops.

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Domaine Auchère Sancerre at L'Art Source, the 2nd Arrondissement Paris wine bar helmed by Martin Pélissier

L’Art Source

While I sometimes think there are too many restaurants in Paris, not all of them worthy, I can’t say there are too many wine bars in Paris. As far as I’m concerned, there’s no such thing. You need one for every mood. Sometimes you’d like to spend the evening sampling different food and wine pairings. Sometimes you just want to meet for a drink and a snack before a late dinner. And sometimes you don’t want the night to end, and you need a place for casual after-dinner drinks.

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The neighborhood around the rue Ste.-Anne, sometimes called Little Japan or Little Tokyo, overflows with Japanese restaurants, themselves overflowing with hungry people—local business people, students, families—lined up for inexpensive soba, udon, rice bowls or ramen.

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