Must Dos Paris
2. Go to the Place des Vosges, which is the oldest and most beautiful square in Paris—and where Victor Hugo lived. Have a drink in one of the cafés on the square and then roam around the Marais for the day, or end on the square. It was built by Henry IV in 1605-1612, over 400 years ago.
3. Go to the rue des Rosiers and see the old Jewish section—one deli actually survived the Nazi occupation, Jo Goldenberg’s, but sadly it closed a few years ago. It is best to have lunch here at Chez Marianne (2, rue des Hospitalières-St.-Gervais, corner of rue des Rosiers, in the 4th), if you like falafel and meze.
4. Check out the tip of Île de la Cité: the place Dauphine. The first of Paris’s wine bars, Taverne Henri IV (13, Place du Pont Neuf, in the 1st; 01 43 54 27 90), is there, plus some other lovely restaurants. Combine this with a walk through Île St. Louis. Of course, the famousBerthillon ice cream shop started here on the island at (29, rue St.-Louis-en-l’Ile).
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6. In the 5th (the Latin Quarter, near the Sorbonne) another magical out-of-the-way place is the Mosquée de Paris an historic mosque from the 1920s with a bathhouse, or hammam, as they call it. Call first. You will feel like you went to Morocco for the day.
8. Even though it’s terribly touristy, a boat tour on the Seine at night is one of the best ways to see Paris, particularly at night. There is also a water taxi (Batobus), which runs during the day; it makes periodic stops—and doesn’t have the obnoxiously loud taped tour guide.
vedettesdupontneuf.com , yachtsdeparis.fr (high end, but worth it)
9. The very best and most impressive grocery store—it makes Dean & DeLuca in New York look silly—is the Grande Épicerie, on the bottom floor of the Bon Marché department store in the 7th. This alone is worth a trip to Paris—seriously.
10. St.-Sulpice, one of Paris’s many impressive churches, has a Delacroix painting to the right as you walk in, plus the church figures heavily in The Da Vinci Code. The fountain out front is lovely—great shopping near here, too. YSL, Christian Lacroix, etc. Place St.-Sulpice in the 6th.
12. Spend some time on the walking bridges—we love the Pont des Arts, which connects the left bank to the Louvre. Enter the museum this way, walking from the left over to the right bank, into the interior courtyard of the Louvre. When you turn left, you get the best shot of the pyramid. Have a coffee at Café Marly, which overlooks the pyramid. Check out our Girls’ Guide bridge tour.
13. Go see an opera or ballet at Opéra Garnier or Théâtre du Châtelet. The building from 1875 is one of the most beautiful pieces of architecture in Paris, and the ceiling by Marc Chagall is not to be missed. If you can’t get in to see a production, tours are offered. A drink at Café de la Paix afterward is de rigueur.