9th and 18th Arrondissements
The newest fashionable neighborhood.
6, rue Edouard VII. 01 53 05 50 55.
Near the theatre of the same name. Bertie is a lovely little place for a bite for lunch or dinner, perhaps before or after the theatre or a performance at Olympia.
(G) Carte Blanche
6, rue Lamartine. 01 48 78 12 20.
This is a neighborhood place that serves excellent, inventive modern French cuisine that’s reasonably priced—a real find.
(S) Casa Olympe
48, rue St.-Georges. 01 42 85 26 01. Mon–Fri.
Madame Olympe Versini runs a boho-chic yet homey bistro in the up-and-coming 9th. She is one of the best female chefs in Paris, but this is comfort food with a touch of Corsica thrown in.
7, rue du Faubourg Montmartre. 01 47 70 86 29.
Daily, 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m.
Every visitor to Paris should eat at Chartier at least once. Sitting at a shared table in the vast fin de siècle space, you may feel like you’ve time-traveled. The old school food is nothing special, but the prices are almost as stuck in time as the place itself. Fun.
(*) Chez Jean
8, rue St.-Lazare. 01 48 78 62 73.
Mon–Fri, lunch and dinner.
Chef Benoît Bordier has won raves for his creative cooking, which lies somewhere between “bistronomy” and haute cuisine and comes with a wine list to match. A Michelin one-star, with menus from 46 to 70 euros.
(C) Churrasqueira Galo
69, rue de Dunkerque. 01 48 74 49 40.
A Portuguese-owned joint that serves up a lick-your-fingers delicious rotisserie half-chicken, salad, rice and red wine for 9 euros. Pair it with a chilled Super Bock beer, or live large and try the Aveleda “green” wine from Portugal for 13 euros. Delicious dining for a great price. Local soccer fans yelling at the soccer matches on TV add ambience to the no-frills decor.
(T, S) Cul de Poule
53, rue des Martyrs. 01 53 16 13 07.
Mon–Sat, lunch and dinner.
Barnyard kitsch is the best way to describe this address, which serves simple dishes built on pedigreed products and natural wines, all at reasonable prices.
(T) Hôtel Amour
8, rue Navarin. 01 48 78 31 80.
Daily, noon–11 p.m.
A beautiful terrace is the draw at this boutique hotel’s restaurant, which serves bistro fare and standards that appeal to the fashionable international crowd, including a serious burger and a fantastic Caesar salad. Read a full review here.
(L) Musée de la Vie Romantique
16, rue Chaptal. 01 55 31 95 67. Closed Mon.
A delightful little museum with a large collection devoted to the female writer George Sand, among others—but the surprise is the lovely garden café, which is inexpensive and charming for lunch, brunch or tea every day (in appropriate weather). Good place to start or end a tour of Montmartre.
(V) Les Pâtes Vivantes
46, rue du Faubourg Montmartre, in the 9th. 01 45 23 10 21.
22, blvd St.-Germain, in the 5th. 01 40 46 84 33.
Mon–Sat, lunch and dinner.
Hand-stretched noodles, stir fried or in soup, are the draw at this fun and affordable Chinese restaurant, now with two locations. Read a full review here.
(V) Rose Bakery
46, rue des Martyrs, in the 9th. 01 42 82 12 80.
Tues–Sun, noon–4 p.m.
30, rue Debelleyme. 01 49 96 54 01.
Tues–Sun, 9 a.m.–7 p.m.
Already a classic, this is where some people go for the salads and savory tarts, others for tea cakes and treats, and many for both.
(C) La Terrace in Café de la Paix
2, rue Scribe. 01 40 07 36 36.
Cheaper and more casual than their restaurant (think Somerset Maugham’s novel The Razor’s Edge). You can indulge in the guilty and totally American club sandwich or a hamburger if you must. They also have caviar, plus oysters—nice before or after the opera, which is right next door. For a proper lunch try La Verrière at the same location.
(S, T) Alice Pizza
4, rue Dancourt. 01 42 54 29 20.
See website for more locations.
The question of authenticity at Alice may be moot. After all, this is Paris not Naples. But the crust is crisp and the long list of toppings (from mascarpone to arugula to duck breast) veers from tradition without getting too weird. Delicious trumps authentic every time.
(D, L, S) La Cave des Abbesses
43, rue des Abbesses. 01 42 52 81 54 (shop only).
Mon–Fri, 5 p.m.–9:30 p.m.; Sat–Sun, noon–9:30 p.m.; no reservations.
Hidden at the back of this Montmartre caviste is a cozy wine bar serving plates of charcuterie and cheese. There are a few stools at the bar and a handful of tables, so go early if you want to score a seat.
(*, T) Chamarré Montmartre
52, rue Lamarck. 01 42 55 05 42.
Daily, lunch and dinner.
Mauritian-born chef Antoine Heerah brings the flavors of the islands to Paris in sophisticated style at this cool, slightly upscale spot. The menu is mostly seafood, and mostly French sourced, but the flavors will take you outre-mer: overseas.
(D, L, T) Chéri Bibi
15, rue André del Sarte. 01 42 54 88 96.
Mon–Sat, 8 p.m.–midnight; bar, 6 p.m.–2 a.m.
This is the watering hole for local hipsters, with lo-fi decor, funky wines and simple, fresh food. Too cool for school.
(H) Chez Toinette
20, rue Germain Pilon. 01 42 54 44 36.
One of our local friend’s favorite places in the 18th, and we take her seriously because she has been in the neighborhood for 30 years. It’s not easy to spot, so be on the lookout for a cozy little nook for classic French fare, including game and other hearty dishes. Good service, reasonable prices and a romantic atmosphere make this little bistro a welcome find in Montmartre.
(D, T) La Famille
41, rue des Trois Frères. 01 42 52 11 12.
One of the hippest addresses in Montmartre, La Famille merges style and substance with creative seasonal food, natural wines and (surprise!) even delicious cocktails.
(D) La Fourmi
74, rue des Martyrs. 01 42 64 70 35.
La Fourmi is a happening place to sip a mojito at happy hour during the week. Outside, the terrasse is generally heaving with young, attractive professionals drinking cocktails, smoking cigarettes and checking each other out. Inside, the dark atmosphere is warm and welcoming. It’s easy to spend hours here. The bar/café is open for lunch and dinner, and is very convenient if you’ve been touring the Montmartre and Pigalle areas.
(T) Guilo Guilo
8, rue Garreau. 01 42 54 23 92.
Dinner only, call for details and reservations.
Sure it’s a challenge to get in (it doesn’t even have standard hours), but it’s worth the effort to secure a spot at the counter, where you will be treated to a series of beautiful and inventive Japanese dishes.