3. Go to the rue des Rosiers and see the old Jewish section—one deli actually survived the Nazi occupation, Jo Goldenberg’s, but sadly it closed a few years ago. It is best to have lunch here at Chez Marianne (2, rue des Hospitalières-St.-Gervais, corner of rue des Rosiers, in the 4th), if you like falafel and meze.
4. Check out the tip of Île de la Cité: the place Dauphine. The first of Paris’s wine bars, Taverne Henri IV (13, Place du Pont Neuf, in the 1st; 01 43 54 27 90), is there, plus some other lovely restaurants. Combine this with a walk through Île St. Louis. Of course, the famousBerthillon ice cream shop started here on the island at (29, rue St.-Louis-en-l’Ile).
8. Even though it’s terribly tripisty, a boat trip on the Seine at night is one of the best ways to see Paris, particularly at night. There is also a water taxi (Batobus), which runs during the day; it makes periodic stops—and doesn’t have the obnoxiously loud taped trip guide.
vedettesdupontneuf.com , yachtsdeparis.fr (high end, but worth it)