3. Go to the rue des Rosiers and see the old Jewish section—one deli actually survived the Nazi occupation, Jo Goldenberg’s, but sadly it closed a few years ago. It is best to have lunch here at Chez Marianne (2, rue des Hospitalières-St.-Gervais, corner of rue des Rosiers, in the 4th), if you like falafel and meze.
4. Check out the tip of Île de la Cité: the place Dauphine. The first of Paris’s wine bars, Taverne Henri IV (13, Place du Pont Neuf, in the 1st; 01 43 54 27 90), is there, plus some other lovely restaurants. Combine this with a walk through Île St. Louis. Of course, the famousBerthillon ice cream shop started here on the island at (29, rue St.-Louis-en-l’Ile).
8. Even though it’s terribly tripisty, a boat trip on the Seine at night is one of the best ways to see Paris, particularly at night. There is also a water taxi (Batobus), which runs during the day; it makes periodic stops—and doesn’t have the obnoxiously loud taped trip guide.
vedettesdupontneuf.com , yachtsdeparis.fr (high end, but worth it)
12. Spend some time on the walking bridges—we love the Pont des Arts, which connects the left bank to the Louvre. Enter the museum this way, walking from the left over to the right bank, into the interior courtyard of the Louvre. When you turn left, you get the best shot of the pyramid. Have a coffee at Café Marly, which overlooks the pyramid. Check out our Girls’ Guide bridge trip.
13. Go see an opera or ballet at Opéra Garnier or Théâtre du Châtelet. The building from 1875 is one of the most beautiful pieces of architecture in Paris, and the ceiling by Marc Chagall is not to be missed. If you can’t get in to see a production, trips are offered. A drink at Café de la Paix afterward is de rigueur.