19th and 20th Arrondissements
(C) Au Boeuf Couronnée
188, ave Jean Jaurès. 01 42 39 44 44.
Daily, lunch and dinner.
The massive meat market at La Villette is long gone, but nostalgic carnivores can get their fix of steak frites and tartare at this classic spot.
(G, T) Le Chapeau Melon
92, rue Rébeval. 01 42 02 68 60.
Just across the rue de Belleville from Le Baratin, Le Chapeau Melon is a caviste by day and a table d’hôtes by night, serving a unique prix fixe menu, with wines only a few euros above retail. Read a full review here.
(V) Le Pacifique
35, rue de Belleville. 01 42 49 66 80.
Daily, 11 a.m.–2 a.m.
Big and bustling, this is the place in Belleville for dim sum.
(T, D, G, L) Rosa Bonheur
2, avenue de la Cascade. 01 42 00 00 45.
There is plenty of bonheur, indeed, at this sprawling indoor/outdoor café at the top of the Parc des Buttes Chaumont. There is a proper restaurant, but you can also go to the counter for cold snacks to bring back to one of the communal tables.
56, rue de Bagnolet, in the 20th. 01 43 71 78 18.
L’Abribus is highly recommended if you’re in the mood for couscous—try it with chicken, merguez or another meat, or try the house concoction. L’Abribus also offers salads and planches paysannes, which are generally wooden platters loaded with meat and cheese toasts. Delicious.
(H, D) Aux Folies Belleville
8, rue de Belleville. 01 46 36 65 98.
Aux Folies Belleville is a Kabyle, or Algerian, café in the artsy area of Belleville. Low-key and relaxed, it has a dive-y atmosphere and is great for a coffee or something a bit more toxic. Sit on the terrasse and people-watch without being bothered.
(G, T) Le Baratin
3, rue Jouye Rouve. 01 43 49 39 70.
Tues–Fri, lunch; Tues–Sat, dinner.
A veritable institution, Le Baratin was an early champion of vins natures. Most people will tell you they come for Raquel Carena’s fresh cooking, though. Reservations imperative.
(D) La Cantine de Belleville
108, blvd de Belleville. 01 43 15 99 29.
La Cantine de Belleville is a bar and concert venue in the up-and-coming area of Belleville. Packed with artsy types, and hosting concerts in the basement almost nightly, this is a great place to go with groups of friends to dance the night away.
(D, G) Les Cascades
82, rue des Cascades. 01 46 36 56 92.
Les Cascades describes itself as a literary bar, presenting a library, exhibitions, concerts, readings and writing workshops, in addition to food and drinks. It’s definitely bohemian and has a bit of an Eastern European atmosphere.
(T) Mama Shelter
109, rue de Bagnolet. 01 43 48 48 48.
Daily, 11 a.m.–midnight.
Young and hip and cosmopolitan, this Philippe Starck–designed boutique hotel in the far reaches of the 20th feels more than a little bit New York. Alain Senderens consulted on the menu of updated comfort food.
(H, V) Le Rouleau de Printemps
42, rue de Tourtille. 01 46 36 98 95.
Thurs–Tues, noon–3:30 p.m. and 7 p.m.–11 p.m.
There are spring rolls, bien sûr, and big bowls of bo bun at this popular Vietnamese address in Belleville.