Vol-au-vent translates literally to “flight in the wind” and refers to the airy lightness of the baked puff pastry shell. It is said to have been created by Antonin Carême in his Parisian patisserie in the early 19th century. Since then, the dish has become something of a stodgy classic, often filled with heavy, cream-based sauces and rich garnishes, such as scallops, shrimp, or chicken and mushrooms.

This version is decidedly lighter, harnessing the bright flavors of Provence, and will make an elegant first course for a late-summer dinner. And you don't need to be anywhere near a Paris pastry shop to enjoy this perfect example of classic French...