I wouldn’t be caught dead taking tours in Paris or anywhere else. I hate feeling like a tourist. I prefer to discover a city on my own, ambling around and finding that corner café as if I were the first one in the world to see it. But there are certain things that even I can’t figure out on my own. Sometimes I have to turn to the pros, but I won’t do so unless they’ll show me Paris in a way that’s special and unique, not in a way that I can find in every...