Ever since my friend relocated to the 14th Arrondissement, he’s been telling me we should eat at Jeu de Quilles. I wish we’d gone sooner.

It’s the kind of space that never fails to charm me. At the front of the bright little room are shelves lined with conserves and condiments, a tiny épicerie that is also chef Benoît Reix’s pantry. He stands behind the kitchen counter at the back, in plain view of the 18 or so seats, chatting with customers and turning out fantastic...