by D.D. Rice
Back in the day of the 14th-century French dukes and their edicts, the Gamay grape managed to get itself kicked out of Burgundy—outlawed, actually—and relegated to Beaujolais. Despite Gamay’s checkered past and its least flattering modern incarnation as Beaujolais Nouveau, we ought not allow ourselves to be soured on the grape. There are simply many worthy examples of Gamay to explore and...