Domaine Mardon from Quincy, a very old but lesser-known appellation in the Loire Valley, is a finger-snapping white wine that fills your glass with plenty of attitude. It has all the classic spry minerally style you’d expect from a Loire sauvignon blanc (Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé being its more famous neighbors) but includes a little wow factor: a lush softness surrounding the wine’s more acidic backbone, highlighted with notes of lime zest running wild through it like fireflies on a warm summer...