Running between meetings yesterday, I stumbled upon a new (to me) Paris neighborhood, Caulaincourt. My introduction to the area began with a graffiti-adorned bridge that served as an overpass for the Montmartre Cemetery, where luminaries like Mme Récamier rest in eternal peace. Cars rushed passed while just below, lazy cats sprawled in the afternoon sun, shadows of the blossoming chestnut trees dancing across their bellies, settled tenants of this Paris...