There is something exotic about viognier. Perhaps that’s because it is uncommon (endangered to near extinction in the 1960s) and its origins are mysterious, no one knowing exactly when or how it arrived in France. Whether it arrived via le mistral or the Roman legions, the variety has an intrigue that goes beyond its apparent lack of pedigree, to the character of the grape itself. When done well, viognier has an unrestrained and flamboyant star quality. We all have friends like this: their dress is often garish, their laugh a touch too loud and their self-image that of a newly discovered...