28, rue de la Tour d’Auvergne, in the 9th Arrondissement.
Reservations: 06 42 87 79 64.
Open now for dinner Wed–Sat.
Until recently, one of the most delightful (and difficult to reserve) tables in Paris had been Spring Restaurant. Tucked away on a side street in the 9th Arrondissement, this shoebox-size resto (French slang for restaurant) was adored by everyone from French critics to visiting foodies. It was hard to find fault with Daniel Rose’s four-course market menu for under 40 euros, and it was difficult to dislike the young American, who pitched in to serve plates and ask each table if everything was delicious. Spring closed its original doors in August and plans to reopen next March around the corner from the Louvre. The new digs will include a vaulted cave (wine cellar) with a walk-in wine bar and highbrow snacks to soak up the champagne. It will also be around the corner from Spring Boutique, set to open in November, with an array of hand-selected products such as wine, charcuterie, honey and maybe even hot dogs.
In the meantime, those of you who want to get in on the Rose action can head back to the rue Tour d’Auvergne. Rose reopened his original location this weekend but under the banner of Table 28. To create a new “rusti-chic” neighborhood place, Rose has ripped out the Spring kitchen and installed a gleaming rotisserie grill. Dinner for now is Coucou de Rennes (a prized Breton chicken) with potatoes au gratin and veggies roasted in the drippings (oh yeah). Including dessert, prices run 29 euros for a quarter chicken portion and 35 euros for a half bird. Don’t expect the program to stay the same, though—Rose plans to roast a whole cochon de lait (suckling pig) on Thursday night and who knows what the following week. Prices will hover at or below 35 euros per person, but will vary depending on the offerings of the day.
As a little bonus, Rose is also offering a takeout option for Table 28, with family-size portions (a whole chicken and sides, for example) for just over 50 euros. This will vary according to the day—call the number above to learn about the possibilities. Those who can’t make it at night or just want a quick bite should stay tuned for news of lunch service (sandwich de porcelet—a very young milk-fed pig) beginning next week.
In a nutshell: Hit Table 28 for high-end comfort food in a sleek and modern space. Menus for 35 euros and under made from prestige ingredients and touched by the hand of a foodie god. This place is new, but word will spread quickly so be sure to reserve in advance.
If you like the sound of Table 28 but can’t afford the tab, try:
69, rue de Dunkerque, in the 9th.
Near metro stop Anvers.
01 48 74 49 40.